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Chef Dominique Leach: From Humble Beginnings to Culinary Stardom

CHICAGO DEFENDER — From the proverbial ashes rose her dream of making a mark in the world of cooking. Her now brick-and-mortar Lexington Betty Smokehouse restaurant, which she founded with her wife Tanisha, is further proof. It has fans from all over the region and around the country who crave her luxurious smoked meats and “soulful sides” like gouda mac and cheese, brisket baked beans and collard greens. 
The post Chef Dominique Leach: From Humble Beginnings to Culinary Stardom first appeared on BlackPressUSA.

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By Tacuma Roeback, Managing Editor | Chicago Defender

Chef Dominique Leach saw her dream go up in flames a few years ago. Yet, it didn’t die. 

Leach started a food truck in July 2017 that caught fire months later. The signs pointed to arson, but no one was ever arrested.  

After watching the fire settle that night, she opened the doors and discovered that everything on that truck had been destroyed, save for one item: a foam poster board.

That board had her name and bio of achievements. It was given to her by organizers of an event she was featured at, and Leach took it everywhere. 

The fact that the poster board, an enduring reminder of all she had accomplished to that point, was untouched by the flames was a sign.

“I used it as inspiration,” Leach said. “Whoever thought they were gonna stop the trajectory of what I have in mind, this is proof that this is just another obstacle that I’ll have to get through and will get through.”

Leach got through and then some. 

From the proverbial ashes rose her dream of making a mark in the world of cooking. Her now brick-and-mortar Lexington Betty Smokehouse restaurant, which she founded with her wife Tanisha, is further proof. It has fans from all over the region and around the country who crave her luxurious smoked meats and “soulful sides” like gouda mac and cheese, brisket baked beans and collard greens. 

Let’s not forget about her line of Wagyu beef hot dogs sold at regional supermarkets like Mariano’s and available nationally online, or her memorable TV appearances on popular Food Network contest cooking shows like “Chopped” and “BBQ Brawl,” which she won in Season 4.

 

“I’ve always been the youngest one, the hardest working one, the only Black one. And in a lot of cases, a lot of times, I was the only woman. But I always knew I was the best.” – Chef Dominique Leach

 

Indeed, the fire couldn’t extinguish Leach’s dream, which persists because she learned early on that she had to keep fighting, working and showing up — to become a thriver by necessity. 

And her own “fire,” which manifests as a tireless desire to succeed, was inspired by two things from her childhood: family gatherings at her mother’s house and peanut butter cookies.

Making a Way Out of No Way

The July 4th holiday was noteworthy at the Humboldt Park home where Leach grew up. Relatives, including her aunts, uncles and cousins, would come over to her mother’s house, where a celebration of food, family and fellowship would commence.  

“I could picture kids running around. The smell of the first batch of meat hitting the grill. Chaos in the kitchen, everybody trying to find whatever bowl or pot they need to get whatever side or dish they’re responsible for making all together,” Leach recalled. 

“Cars pulling up, pulling out. Shuffling in and out of the front of the building. We all trying to get situated. And there is anticipation, for the next couple of hours, and once we get settled and can start the prep work, that it turns into hanging out and a lot of love in the room.”

Chaotic yet beautiful is how she described those times. For her, the Independence Day holiday was especially more joyous because her birthday was the day after. 

From those gatherings, Leach learned the importance of providing hospitality and how a good meal could satiate the body and fortify the spirit, especially for relatives on an extended stay at their house.  

Leach also said those gatherings were where she acquired a grownup’s taste for food.

“Hot dogs and chicken wings came off the grill first. That’s what they passed out to us as kids, but I always wanted to see what that steak or rib tips was tasting like,” she said, laughing.

Eating those foods was like experiencing luxury to her because “it wasn’t something that we ate regularly.”

And during the summer, when Leach wasn’t helping herself to those prime fixings or playing basketball, she was dabbling with a cookie recipe imprinted on the side of a large can of peanut butter. She started doing this at 12. 

“It was just a black and white can of peanut butter and a peanut butter cookie recipe on the side,” she said, “I would just throw the recipe together, and sometimes it would be delicious, and sometimes it’d be too much flour and chalky.”

What captivated her were the reactions of her taste testers. 

“I gravitated towards that feeling of how people felt about the finished product, ‘Like man, these are real good! You made these?’” she said. 

She kept making peanut butter cookies until she perfected the recipe.

“That was really the only recipe that I can remember doing for a long time because we didn’t have cookbooks in the house or anything like that,” she said. 

Something else dawned on her as we spoke at a table at her Lexington Betty restaurant.

“Now that I think about it,” she said, “That was the beginning of me just wanting to be great at whatever it was that I did.”

That became her modus operandi — to make a way out of no way, especially when times got tough. And they did.   

‘I Had to Embody This Hustler Mentality’

Leach came out to her family when she was 16, and not too long afterward, in her senior year at William Howard Taft High School, she began to grapple with what she wanted to do with her life. 

At the time, Leach didn’t want to go away to college, believing she would struggle because her family would not be able to help her financially.  

She admitted that differences with her mother over her decision to identify as a Black queer woman helped her make a crucial decision early, one many people don’t make until they’re well into their twenties. 

“I said, ‘I gotta take care of myself’ because of the differences that we were going through in the house. It was already clear that I was going to have to just figure things out on my own,” she said.

“I had to embody this hustler mentality.”

So, Leach sold Italian ice at her first food industry job and did whatever she could legally to get by.  

She eventually answered that larger question about what to do with her life. 

“I decided that cooking was one of the few things that I can think of that inspired me, and I could get paid off of,” she said, “But it wouldn’t necessarily have to feel like work. It was something that I looked forward to doing.”

After graduating from Taft, she eventually enrolled in culinary school at the Illinois Institute Of Art Chicago, earning an associate’s degree in Culinary Arts in 2006.

From there, she went to work at some of the most prestigious restaurant kitchens in Chicago under the guidance of renowned culinary figures like James Beard award-winning owner and chef Tony Mantuano and Executive Chef Sarah Grueneberg of Spiaggia, a Michelin-starred Italian restaurant in Chicago. She collaborated with award-winning author and chef Raghavan Lyer at The Art Institute Museum.

By then, Leach was a chef’s chef, classically trained and fluent in various culinary traditions and working in a world dominated by White men with funky hair and tattoos. 

And in school and those kitchens, Leach had to show and prove her value every time. 

“I’ve always been the youngest one, the hardest working one, the only Black one. And in a lot of cases, a lot of times, I was the only woman.” 

“But I always knew I was the best,” she said.  

No Role Models

Chef Dominique Leach

Leach had to bear the burden of being a trailblazer with no role models or mentors to help guide her through a craggy journey littered with tests, obstacles, disappointments and closed doors.

She was equipped to excel in those fine dining kitchens, but the opportunities weren’t there. Eventually, Leach branched out with her wife to form their own catering company in 2016 called “Cater to You Events & Drop Offs.”

Though the catering company did brisk business and provided a broad menu of items, Leach yearned to do something different, to narrow her focus to a particular specialty that appealed to her community and spoke to her upbringing. That answer came in a notepad, where she scribbled ideas for a barbecue restaurant concept. 

From those notes, Leach determined she would feature smoked meats like brisket, smoked chicken and pulled pork. 

All she had to do was determine the sides, a critical element for barbecue restaurants, which are judged not only by their meats but also by the quality and uniqueness of their sides. 

“I took my sides from my soul food catering menu and incorporated it with this barbecue concept that I had written down several times,” Leach said. “And I came up with smoked meats and soulful sides, and it took me a few weeks to figure out what the name would be. And when I figured it out, I thought it was perfect.” 

All that was left was to give it a name. What would this barbecue joint be called?

The smells from the kitchens of her youth came to mind, especially those of her grandmother, Betty King, who hailed from Lexington, Mississippi, a small town with a population below 2,000, about a good hour north of Jackson. 

After recalling those memories, she came up with a name.

“Lexington Betty.”

Her barbecue food truck was born. Before the fire happened, the truck was a success. Finally, Leach found a niche that spoke to her sensibilities and married her classic training with the food she grew up cherishing. 

But watching her truck burn in the parking space by her house after only having it for a few months was devastating. 

“If I ever felt like my dream was threatened, it was in that moment,” she said.

“But fortunately, you know, somehow I found strength from it.”

In 2022, the brick-and-mortar Lexington Betty Smokehouse opened, taking over the One Eleven Food Hall, an incubation space for Black food businesses at 756 E. 111th St.

Chicago Neighborhood Initiatives, the nonprofit running the food hall, contacted Leach about moving her business there. The organization offered her a $35,000 grant to renovate the restaurant, and Leach used her money to reconfigure the space.

The stone gray and muted orange interior greets you when you walk through the doors of Lexington Betty Smokehouse. Large tables are arranged around the restaurant, lending it a family cookout vibe — much like the ones she attended in her youth. 

The walls are lined with laminated food reviews and feature stories about the restaurant. They hang by photos of Leach. There is even a cardboard cutout the chef flashing her vibrant yet hard-earned smile near the front of the store.

The Humboldt Park native has been featured in numerous publications, including People, Food & Wine and HuffPost. Good Morning America named her restaurant “Best Barbecue in Chicago.” In addition to being featured on Food Network, she serves as a judge on Food Network Canada’s Fire Masters. Even renowned chefs and bonafide barbecue pitmasters are seeking her out. 

Chef Leach accomplished it all through hard work, consistency, imagination and endurance. She is genuinely self-made as someone who “got it out the mud,” which means to rise from humble circumstances and make your way to the top.  

“The adversities I had to face, finding my authentic self, will tear anybody down, but I just kept going,” she said, tears running out from behind her shades. 

Finally, I asked her, right there in her restaurant, what she would tell the younger version of herself about this very moment, of going from those family cookouts and making peanut butter cookies to being a nationally recognized chef and trailblazer out of necessity.

“Consistency really is key,” she said.

“I never waited for validation from anybody. And now I got people looking up to me, depending on me. It was just because I kept going.” 

“So, I would just tell her to keep going.”

The post Chef Dominique Leach: From Humble Beginnings to Culinary Stardom appeared first on Chicago Defender.

The post Chef Dominique Leach: From Humble Beginnings to Culinary Stardom first appeared on BlackPressUSA.

Chicago Defender Staff

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COMMENTARY: Women of Color Shape Our Past and Future

MINNESOTA SPOKESMAN RECORDER — Every March, Women’s History Month invites us to pause and honor the women whose courage, intellect, and leadership have shaped our world. This year, that invitation feels especially urgent. We are living in a time when history is being rewritten, when DEI is being recast as a threat, and when the stories we choose to uplift matter more than ever. The stories of women of color must be centered, celebrated, and carried forward with intention.

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Women of Color Leadership Shapes the Legacy of Women’s History Month

By Dr. Sharon M. Holder | Minnesota Spokesman Recorder

Women’s History Month offers an opportunity to recognize the enduring impact of women of color leadership across history and in the present day. From Harriet Tubman and Shirley Chisholm to today’s leaders in science, politics and culture, women of color continue to shape movements, institutions and communities through courage, collaboration and vision.

Every March, Women’s History Month invites us to pause and honor the women whose courage, intellect, and leadership have shaped our world. This year, that invitation feels especially urgent. We are living in a time when history is being rewritten, when DEI is being recast as a threat, and when the stories we choose to uplift matter more than ever. The stories of women of color must be centered, celebrated, and carried forward with intention.

For centuries, women of color have been architects of progress, even when history tried to confine them to the margins. They have led movements, built institutions, transformed culture, and expanded the boundaries of justice, leadership, and community. Their contributions are not postscripts; they are landmarks. Yet too often, their brilliance has been acknowledged only in hindsight. Women’s History Month offers a chance to correct that imbalance, not only by remembering the past, but by recognizing their leadership unfolding before us.

This legacy lives in Harriet Tubman, whose courage and strategic brilliance transformed the Underground Railroad into one of the boldest freedom operations in American history. In Barbara Jordan, whose moral clarity reshaped the nation’s understanding of justice and constitutional responsibility. In Madam C. J. Walker, expanding both the beauty industry and the economic horizons of Black women. It dances in Josephine Baker, who challenged racism and resisted fascism. In Ida B. Wells and Dolores Huerta, who wielded truth and determination in pursuit of justice. In Chien-Shiung Wu, whose experiments altered science, and Shirley Chisholm, whose political courage expanded the very definition of leadership. These women did more than break barriers; they built new worlds.

A powerful throughline in the leadership of women of color is how they lead: collaboratively, creatively, relationally, and with deep responsibility to community. Their leadership is grounded not in hierarchy but in connection, in the belief that progress is something we build together.

We see this in Kamala Harris, whose presence expands the boundaries of possibility; in Ketanji Brown Jackson; in Oprah Winfrey; and in Toni Morrison, who insisted that the interior lives of Black women are essential to the human story. It resonates in Simone Biles and Serena Williams, redefining strength through excellence and self-belief.

Today, women of color continue to drive breakthroughs in medicine, technology, the arts, politics, and environmental justice. Their leadership appears not only in boardrooms or public office, but in mentorship, advocacy, and the daily navigation of systems never designed for them. The spirit shines in Mae Jemison and Ellen Ochoa; in Michelle Obama; and in the brilliance of Katherine Johnson, Dorothy Vaughan, Mary Jackson, and Christine Darden, whose work helped launch a nation into space.

Celebration is important, but it is not enough. Honoring women of color requires intentional action rooted in equity. It means creating environments where their voices are valued, challenging the biases that shape who is recognized, and ensuring progress is shared.

As we celebrate Women’s History Month, let us honor women of color not as symbols, but as leaders whose work continues to guide us. When we uplift women of color, we honor history and shape the future.

Dr. Sharon M. Holder lives in South Carolina. She holds a PhD/MPhil in Gerontology from the Center for Research on Aging at the University of Southampton, UK; a Master of Science in Gerontology from the Institute of Gerontology at King’s College London, UK; and a Master of Social Work from the Graduate College of Social Work at the University of Houston, Texas.

Dr. Holder discovered her love of poetry at the University of Houston–Downtown, where she published in The Bayou Review and the Anthology of Poetry. Today, she writes poetry as a practice of gratitude alongside her academic research.

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Woman’s Search for Family’s Roots Leads to Ancestor John T. Ward – A Successful Entrepreneur and Conductor on the Underground Railroad

THE AFRO — For years, she wanted to know more about her ancestor John T. Ward, she said, and her curiosity eventually became an obsession, leading her to become the genealogist for her family. And so, for more than a decade, she set out to trace her family’s roots and discovered a story that would change her life and the way she viewed American history. 

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By D. Kevin McNeir | Special to The AFRO 

Shanna Ward, the owner of a publishing company and insurance agency located in Columbus, Ohio, said the elders in her family often say she inherited her entrepreneurial spirit from one of their ancestors – a formerly enslaved child from Virginia whose freedom came through manumission in 1827.

For years, she wanted to know more about her ancestor John T. Ward, she said, and her curiosity eventually became an obsession, leading her to become the genealogist for her family. And so, for more than a decade, she set out to trace her family’s roots and discovered a story that would change her life and the way she viewed American history.

John T. Ward would help others secure their freedom and justice in his roles as a conductor on the Underground Railroad, an abolitionist, and political activist. But realizing that economic freedom was essential to his and his family’s survival, he and his son founded the Ward Transfer Line in 1881 (now E.E. Ward Moving) – one of America’s oldest Black-owned businesses. While it has transferred ownership, the business remains in operation today.

Shanna Ward recently published a book about her ancestor, “The Bequest of John T. Ward,” which she hopes can be added to other unheralded tales of Black resistance that occurred during America’s antebellum period.

“Originally, I just wanted to write a 100-page story when I first began digging and was encouraged after I found a copy of a will dated 1827 which included him and was a rare example of a mass manumission,” Shanna Ward said. “Three of the slaves, including John’s grandfather, were given about 294 acres of land in the will, but all the former slaves were supposed to remain on the plantation until their 21st birthday. Some refused to remain. That’s how our family got to Ohio.”

Ward said she learned that newly freed Blacks, including her ancestors in Ohio, had to fend for themselves and often did so with amazing results given the obstacles they faced.

“In those days there were no civil rights organizations, and in local communities, Blacks formed and supported Black-owned businesses, took their own census recordings, and became involved in local politics – all without White involvement,” she said.

BOOK COVER: The cover of the book “The Bequest of John T. Ward,” written by Shanna Ward about her ancestor who, as a child, was granted his freedom in 1827 and went on to become a successful business owner in Ohio, a political activist, and a conductor on the historic Underground Railroad.

BOOK COVER: The cover of the book “The Bequest of John T. Ward,” written by Shanna Ward about her ancestor who, as a child, was granted his freedom in 1827 and went on to become a successful business owner in Ohio, a political activist, and a conductor on the historic Underground Railroad.

“There is part of Ohio where, during the days of slavery, if you successfully crossed the river you were free,” she said. “That was where Black life began – across the river in freedom. When we understand ourselves as more than property and uncover tales of survival which are the foundation of our legacy, then we can better understand who we are and what our ancestors endured. We are stronger than we are often led to believe.”

Efforts among African Americans to learn their family roots have increased over the past several decades, particularly given the success of the PBS documentary, “Finding Your Roots,” hosted and narrated by Harvard University professor Dr. Henry Louis Gates Jr.

On the show’s website, Gates said he developed the show in 2012 in efforts to continue his quest to “get into the DNA of American culture.”

In each episode, celebrities view ancestral histories and share their emotional experience with viewers. Gates attributes the success of the show to a significant surge in interest among Black Americans in tracing their family roots and a desire to reconnect with ancestral history that was severed by slavery.

JOHN T. WARD: John T. Ward, the historic patriarch in a family whose roots can be traced to the days of slavery in Virginia, is the subject of a new book written by a member of his proud family, Shanna Ward, called “The Bequest of John T. Ward.”

JOHN T. WARD: John T. Ward, the historic patriarch in a family whose roots can be traced to the days of slavery in Virginia, is the subject of a new book written by a member of his proud family, Shanna Ward, called “The Bequest of John T. Ward.”

“Advancements in DNA testing have increased accessibility of records and led to a cultural push to reclaim identity beyond the ‘brick wall’ of 1870,” said Gates who noted that the 1870 U.S. Census represents the first time former slaves were listed by name and, unfortunately, serves as the point where records of their lives often stop and cannot be traced any earlier.

In a recent paper published in the journal “American Anthropologist,” University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign anthropology professor LaKisha David posits that by using genetic genealogy, African Americans now have the real possibility of restoring family narratives that were disrupted, severed and destroyed by institutional slavery.

“For African Americans who have grown up with a sense of ancestral loss and disconnection, this reclamation of family history is deeply humanizing and healing,” she writes. “It replaces the genealogical unknown with tangible knowledge of ancestral histories and kinship ties.

“Identifying African ancestors and living relatives is an act of restorative justice. It is ultimately about (re)claiming the humanity, dignity, and agency of enslaved Africans and their descendants, which is an essential component of repairing the harms of slavery.”

Ward said by uncovering her family’s truth, she has established a platform for education and empowerment for herself, her children, and today’s youth.

“I realized how important it is to pass down our own stories to the next generation,” Ward said. “There’s so much our children need to know about the Underground Railroad, the quilt codes created by Black women, and other examples of unrecorded heroics and bravery exhibited by Black men and women. Their collective efforts led to the end of Jim Crow laws and the securing of equal rights in the U.S. Constitution for African Americans. If you look hard enough, I believe everyone has someone like Harriet Tubman or Frederick Douglass in their family.”

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Advocates Raise Alarm Over ICE Operation, MOU and Detention Risks in Baltimore County

THE AFRO — “This is highly problematic given many of the charges that land people in county correctional facilities to begin with are for misdemeanors of which they may not even ultimately be proven guilty and convicted,” said Cathryn Ann Paul Jackson, public policy director for We Are CASA. “It results in a subversion of the local criminal justice system as a means to further racial profiling and do ICE’s dirty work.”

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By Megan Sayles | AFRO Staff Writer
msayles@afro.com

As U.S. Immigration Customs and Enforcement (ICE) operations intensify nationwide, community organizations have become the eyes and ears of their neighborhoods—monitoring the agency’s presence and alerting residents to protect themselves and their neighbors.

In Baltimore County, nonprofits like We Are CASA have observed a spectrum of enforcement actions.

“We have seen a range of activity, including traffic stops and ICE showing up in neighborhoods or in seeming response to tips,” said Cathryn Ann Paul Jackson, public policy director for We Are CASA. “Beyond actual ICE activity in Baltimore County, we have seen many detentions of Baltimore County residents across the DMV, as community members tend to travel across counties and cities for work.”

We Are CASA, a national nonprofit headquartered in Maryland, is dedicated to empowering and improving the quality of life for working-class Black, Latino, Afro-descendent, Indigenous and immigrant communities. Jackson’s personal connection to this mission led her to the organization. A daughter of immigrants from Guyana and Trinidad, she said she grew up witnessing firsthand how immigration policy can define families’ safety, opportunity and sense of belonging.

She said the locations and times of ICE operations in Baltimore County have varied over time.

“We have consistently seen ICE arrest people at their check-in appointments, which were ironically created as an alternative to detention and are now being abused to trap people into custody,” said Jackson. “For a period of time, we were witnessing a significant amount of arrests along the Baltimore-Washington Parkway by U.S. Park Police, who were using a previously rarely enforced law against driving commercial vehicles on this road as a pretext to profile immigrant drivers, detain them and hand them over to ICE.”

Last fall, Baltimore County entered into a Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) with ICE, removing the locality from the Department of Justice’s (DOJ) sanctuary jurisdictions list and formalizing a policy for notifying ICE before the release of inmates with federal immigration detainers or judge-signed warrants.

The agreement codified an existing practice within the Baltimore County Department of Corrections. The MOU is not a 287(g) agreement, which is a partnership between local law enforcement and ICE to delegate immigration enforcement authority to police officers. Those agreements were banned by the state of Maryland on Feb. 17.

However, Jackson criticized the policy memorialized in the MOU, saying that although it is carefully drafted to avoid legal violations, it effectively allows detention centers to hold people past their court-ordered release so that ICE can take them into custody.

“This is highly problematic given many of the charges that land people in county correctional facilities to begin with are for misdemeanors of which they may not even ultimately be proven guilty and convicted,” said Jackson. “It results in a subversion of the local criminal justice system as a means to further racial profiling and do ICE’s dirty work.”

Baltimore County has said it entered into the MOU in an effort to preserve its access to federal funding. The locality explained its reasoning on a FAQ page about its removal from the DOJ’s sanctuary jurisdictions list.

“Inclusion on DOJ’s list could risk significant federal funding, on which the county and constituents depend,” the entry read. “Signing the MOU ensures that the county avoids risks to federal funding that is used to provide needed services.”

Baltimore County’s removal is not unique, as neither Maryland nor any of its counties appear on the DOJ’s list. Still, community members worry that the county’s MOU with ICE could lead to wrongful detentions and the misidentification of residents.

Immigration detainers are not always confirmation of a person’s immigration status—or lack thereof. They are requests by ICE that can be issued without a judicial determination and do not, on their own, establish a person’s legal status.

“We’re very concerned about errors occurring here in the county because of the amped up nature of this mass deportation push,” said Patterson. “This is a replacement theory-driven immigration policy. That means that at the same time we are importing White South African Afrikaaners—who at one time essentially colonized South Africa and oppressed Black South Africans—we are fast deporting people of color. All of us who are the minority can be mistaken for ‘unlawful immigrants.’”

The recent escalation in Minneapolis has heightened Patterson’s concern. He said the city has effectively been made a battleground.

Patterson said the Baltimore County NAACP wants the public to recognize that ICE operates as a militarized organization, unlike local police. He urged people to consider avoiding areas where ICE is active whenever possible and to exercise caution if they encounter agents. If approached, Patterson stressed that people verify warrants are properly signed and directed at them, assert their right to remain silent and contact an attorney before answering questions or consenting to searches.

He also encouraged residents to notify the Baltimore County NAACP of any encounters with ICE.

“We don’t want to wait for Minnesota in Maryland before speaking out about this,” said Patterson. “We want to equip our people to protect themselves behaviorally, consciously and conscientiously because these things are coming to pass. The imprint is among us and we need, therefore, to be aware.”

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